Adidas Austria
I recently had the pleasure of conversing with a very
important man in the history of sports shoe sales, I’m indebted to him for
solving a mystery about my favourite adidas production factory – adidas
Austria. Why do I like Austrian shoes so much? Well if you ever held a pair in
your hands or put them on your feet you will know that the build quality is
simply amazing, right up there with the best. Also Austria tended to be a bit
more inventive with colour schemes in comparison with its German brethren who
were (at least initially) conservative in selection.
The build quality on these 1986 Austrian 'Gazelle' is amazing.
An example of the use of different colour schemes used by adidas Austria - 'Speed 76' [owned by Funkyadi].
I don’t actually know too much about adidas Austria, there
isn’t a great deal of information on the internet about adidas production in
general, but what I can tell you is that the factory was based in the Viktring
neighbourhood of the city of Klagenfurt, close to the border of Slovenia.
Production began in 1968 and they worked in close association with the German
factory, often sharing the same management and involved in the testing of prototype
shoes. They also used the same shoe designs as the German factories (albeit
with slight modifications), although from the early 70s they began designing
their own models. The ‘Jeans’ is probably their most famous shoe;-
incorporating an upper used on the ‘Rio’ and ‘Azzurro’ with a thick wedged midsole
sitting on a saw-tooth profile outsole as seen on the ‘SL 76’. The Klagenfurt
factory tended to produce training shoes, tennis shoes and football boots. They
didn’t produced any shoes for specialist sports and only briefly flirted with
track spikes in the early 70s. They did produced nylon running shoes but this
didn’t really happen until the early 80s.
'Jeans' - This version from 1986 with a trefoil sole is commonly known as 'Mark II' in collectors circles, although adidas themselves never called it that at the time.
'Rio' introduced in 1975, the upper was an inspiration for the 'Jeans'
What has always puzzled me is why build a factory there?
Austria borders Germany so from a logistical point of view there wouldn’t have
been any problem with transporting goods there. Austria has a relatively small
population (just under 7.5 million in 1970) so I couldn’t find any reason why
it would need its own production plant. The Austrian sports market is also very
seasonal with summer training shoes being swapped for ski boots in the winter
months.
Adidas Austria did export its shoes though, particularly to
the UK and Scandinavian countries. On the boxes of the early export models you
will find these brilliant little stickers of the flag of the intended
destination. Adidas Austria also produced models specific to the requirements
of national distributors. Adidas’s early distribution system worked by having
partnership agreements with companies in different countries - they had no
regional offices themselves. Often these companies already had experience of working
in the sports, textile or leisure industry, so for example in the UK distribution
was handled by Umbro who manufactured football, rugby and hockey kits. The production
of special make ups (SMU) for national distributors means that many Austrian
models were produced in relatively small quantities and consequently are
amongst the rarest models for vintage collectors to find these days.
'Athen Rot' for the Danish market
'Comet' track spike with a Portuguese export flag
'Olympia' destined for Great Britain
'Mexicana' SMU manufactured at the request of Gunnar Lundström AB the Swedish distributor of adidas and produced in national colours.
So why did the Austrian factory exist? During some research
I recently spoke to Jürg
Stucki the former CEO of Intersport International Corporation from 1968 to
1997. In case you don’t know Intersport is a chain of European sports retailers
formed from buying organizations in 10 different countries. The
initial ten countries consisted of Austria, Belgium, Denmark, France, Germany,
Italy, Netherlands, Norway, Sweden and Switzerland. At the time sports retailers
tended to be small, family run businesses and while some larger companies existed,
they tended to be regional or national rather than international. The size of Intersport
therefore gave it a huge amount of power when negotiating with sports companies
such as adidas and Puma. Don’t forget during this time adidas had no retail
shops of their own and were a production company only. Mr. Stucki explained to me that during the
sixties and much of the seventies there was actually two European trading power
blocks – the EEC (which later became the EU) and the EFTA (European Free Trade
Association). Tax free distribution of goods only existed between member
states, so if Germany (a member of the EEC) wanted to export goods to Austria
(a member of EFTA) it would have to pay an import tax on its shoes. The
original members of the EFTA were Austria, Denmark, Portugal, Norway, Denmark,
Sweden and the UK. So there were have it, Austria was chosen as a location
based on economic reasons, to lower the costs of shoes for adidas and its
customers in EFTA countries.
While adidas Austria are still based in Klagenfurt, production
of shoes ceased in 1990 as manufacture increasingly moved to Asia. The late
eighties and early nineties were a time of austerity for adidas, closing down European
factories and winding up regional distribution agreements in an attempt to re-organise
and cost-cut in the face of declining sales and stiff competition. So adidas ‘made
in Austria’ may be gone, but it will never be forgotten in vintage collecting
circles.
'Intersport Star' circa 1977 from Carl Dimelow's collection. Both adidas and Puma designed exclusive models for Intersport which were only available in their stores.
The famous Austrian flag logo adorned boxes from the early 80s onwards