My Collection - Guam
Today’s shoe is probably one of the rarest in my collection
and probably one of the rarest adidas you will come across, in fact I’m not
even sure this shoe was released in the form I own, but onto that later.
Firstly what is a Guam? I’ll admit I had to look this up
when I first heard about these shoes some years ago. Guam is the largest island
in Micronesia in the North West Pacific and is an unincorporated territory of
the United States. It was first
colonised by the Spanish in the 1700s but became the property of the US
following the American-Spanish War of 1898. Apparently tourism is a large part
of the economy on the island, being a popular destination for Japanese
tourists.
Which leads us nicely onto the place of manufacture, which
was Japan. I’m pretty sure everyone who is reading this is aware that adidas
was made in the Japan – they remain amongst the most sought after shoes for
collectors and were often produced in vibrant colours and incorporated
different styles from the European factories.
The ‘Guam’ is a good example of this, because this shoe was never
released in Europe in any form and the colourway is really quite stunning. Over
the years I’ve seen a few ‘Guam’, not many, but a few and interestingly none of
them have the sole unit which is attached to mine. Normally they sit on a transparent
trefoil sole and are typically red with gold stripes, red with silver stripes
or (much rarer) grey with red stripes. I’ve even seen a grey-red colourway
leather pair. But if this silhouette looks familiar then that is because it’s
actual based on another shoe - the Yugoslavian made ‘Milano’ model.
The 'Milano' an inspiration for the 'Guam'
The 'Guam' with transparent trefoil sole from the collection of Danny Holmes
The sole unit of the Guam, in this case the rare leather version.
Why did they change the colours of the ‘Milano’ and release
it as the ‘Guam’? Well there isn’t really an answer to that, but it was quite
common for licensee’s to change the colours, materials and names of European designed
models when manufacturing adidas in their own countries. Sometimes they even
took the upper from one design and place it on the sole of a different design
to make a completely different shoe. I’ll cover adidas licences in a later post
but generally the changes were down to regional tastes. Japanese buyers tended to like bright coloured
shoes in comparison to the more conservative European tastes of the time. The
use of the name Guam appears to stem from its locality near Japan and is part
of what I am going to call the ‘Pacific’ series. Yes, I’ve made that up, but there never was a
‘cities’ or ‘islands’ series either. These are just labels that collectors use
to refer to a group of similar shoes - adidas never called them by any series
names when they were originally released. The models included in the Pacific
series are ‘Guam, ‘Samoa’, ‘Saipan’ and ‘Hawaii’. All of these are islands
located in the Pacific and are in some way connected to the US as dependents,
territories or states. By the way, ‘Samoa’ and ‘Hawaii’ should not be confused
with the French made shoes of the same name which form part of what we call island
series. These are completely different shoes manufactured in Japan and for sale
in Japan only.
So when was the ‘Guam’ released? Well that’s hard to say
exactly, there are no markings or dates inside the shoes, but by a process of
reasoning we can make a good estimated guess. A good starting point is to check
adidas catalogues for pictures of the shoes. I have several Japanese adidas
catalogues but none of them feature the ‘Guam’, ‘Hawaii’ or Saipan. The ‘Hawaii’
is so rare I’ve only ever seen three pairs and never one in good condition and
the ‘Saipan’ I’ve never seen at all - only a recollection from a Japanese
collector confirms their actual existence. However their absence from
catalogues does not change anything. A catalogue is a ‘snapshot’ of the
company’s products often highlighting new or popular models, not everything
produced. The Samoa does appear however, in the 1980, 1981, 1982 and 1983 Japanese catalogues.
So a starting point would be the early 80s.
An example of the colourways used on the 'Samoa', all told there were eight colour variants.
The rare 'Hawaii' model made in Japan
Also if we conclude that the ‘Guam’ is based on the ‘Milano’,
then as the ‘Milano’ was released in 1981 in Europe - production of the ‘Guam’ could
not have been any earlier than that year. The final jigsaw piece comes from the
tongue label and box of the ‘Guam’. Now I don’t have the box to these shoes but
I have a picture of it lifted from a Japanese website. Two companies actually
manufactured adidas shoes in Japan. The first was Kanematsu Sport who held the
licence for the sale of adidas in Japan from 1970 until 1984. Kanematsu didn’t
actually start making shoes until 1977, before that the shoes were imported from
the European and Taiwanese factories. Even after they started making adidas
they still bolstered their product lines with imported adidas shoes. Then there was Descente who also had a
licence from adidas beginning in 1970, but they had the licence for textiles
only. This made sense as Descente made ski wear and football and baseball
shirts prior to their adidas agreement. But in 1984 for a reason I do not know
(maybe someone can help me here) Kanematsu lost their licence and Descente got
the shoe agreement as well as the textiles. So in 1984 the adidas product range
changes, as do the design of the tongue tags and the boxes. So looking at the Guam
and its box we can tell that the shoe was made by Kanematsu rather than
Descente and is therefore from prior to 1984.
'Guam' box
An example of a Kanematsu style box from the early 80s, very similar to German style boxes.
An example of a Descente box circa 1987.
Well, all of this is an extremely long winded way for me to
say I reckon that my shoe was probably made between 1981 and 1983. But hold on,
what about the sole on your shoe? Well it’s a 3-zone ‘Samba’ style much
different to the other Guam soles. It could have been attached at a later date.
I see no visible glue marks to suggest this and it seems well attached. Or it
could merely be a variant. Sole variants exist on other Japanese models such as
the ‘Munchen’ and ‘Napoli’. But whether it’s a sole swap or a rare variant I’m
happy to own this extremely rare curiosity.
My Guam with 'Samba' style sole.
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